HOW TO GLOW: What a Dermatologist Really Thinks About Retinol, Sunscreen, and Anti-Ageing Treatments
- Dr Natalie Hutchins
- Apr 15
- 4 min read
Updated: Apr 17
Episode Introduction
If you’ve ever turned to social media for skincare advice, you’ll know how quickly it can become overwhelming.
From sponsored recommendations from doctors and influencers, to conflicting claims about sunscreen causing cancer, debates over mineral versus chemical formulas, vaginal oestrogen creams on your face and ten-step routines; the noise can be relentless. And often the messaging is contradictory, even from people with medical credentials.
In midlife, it can feel even more complicated. Women are often navigating new and sometimes unexpected changes to their skin, alongside the broader symptoms of perimenopause and menopause: dryness, dullness, sensitivity, fine lines, uneven tone. And many are at a loss to know what they actually need versus what is a waste of money, or worse, actively damaging their skin rather than improving it.
In this episode, I am joined by Dr Justine Hextall, a Consultant Dermatologist with over 20 years of clinical experience. We discuss what the science actually says about sunscreen, retinoids, and collagen supplements; which in-clinic procedures have real evidence behind them; and why the most important thing you can do for your skin at any age that doesn’t involve a complicated regime.
Guest Bio
Dr Justine Hextall is a Consultant Dermatologist with over two decades of experience in both NHS and private practice. She has a particular interest in skin health across the lifespan, including the impact of hormonal changes on the skin, the gut-skin axis, and evidence-based approaches to skin aging. She is known for her nuanced, research-led approach to both medical dermatology and aesthetic treatments, and for her commitment to cutting through the misinformation that surrounds skincare and cosmetic procedures.
What We Cover
00:02:06- What Actually Happens to Skin in Midlife
Why the changes you are noticing in your 40s are not just about aging and what is really driving them.
00:06:14- Your Gut, Your Stress, Your Skin
The bidirectional link between the gut, the brain, and the skin, and why it opens up more options than a serum ever could.
00:10:16- The Real Non-Negotiables
A consultant dermatologist's shortlist (and it is much shorter than you think).
00:14:05- The Sunscreen Debate
Some influencers on social media are telling women to skip it. Here is what the evidence actually says.
00:24:08- Retinoids: What They Are and How to Use Them
From over-the-counter retinol to prescription tretinoin; where to start and what to expect.
00:31:36- Preventative Botox in Your 20s
Is there any evidence for it? And could it actually make you look older?
00:34:54- The Sephora Effect
Why teenagers are developing skin conditions from adult skincare products, and what they actually need.
00:40:30- Controversial Products: Collagen, Topical Estrogen, and Red Light
The treatments being sold hard to midlife women right now; and the honest verdict on each.
00:48:20- In-Clinic Procedures: What Is Worth It
Botox, microneedling, peels, lasers, and energy devices; what Dr Hextall recommends, what she avoids, and why.
What You Will Learn
• Why does skin change so much in midlife and around menopause?
• How much of skin aging is genetic, and how much can I actually control?
• What is the skin barrier and why does it matter so much?
• Does sunscreen cause cancer? What does the evidence actually say?
• What is the difference between retinol, retinaldehyde, and tretinoin?
• Does oral collagen supplementation actually improve skin?
• When should you start considering in-clinic skin treatments?
• Is preventative Botox in your 20s backed by evidence?
• Is it safe for teenagers to use retinols, acids, and adult skincare products?
Key Takeaways
• Your skin barrier is everything. Before you add actives, before you spend money on treatments, make sure your barrier is calm, hydrated, and functioning.
• Sun protection is not optional. The evidence for daily broad-spectrum SPF reducing skin cancer risk is robust. Do not let social media misinformation talk you out of it.
• More is not necessarily more. Whether it is retinol strength, skincare steps, or cosmetic procedures, overtreatment is a real risk. Consistency at a moderate dose will outperform extremes every time.
• Be sceptical of anything marketed to you as urgent or preventative, especially if you are in your 20s or younger. The evidence for early interventions like Botox simply does not exist, and the risks do.
Further Resources and Support
Skin Health and Dermatology
• British Association of Dermatologists — Patient information on a wide range of skin conditions, treatments, and finding a consultant dermatologist.
• American Academy of Dermatology — Evidence-based skin health guidance, condition-specific resources, and advice on finding a board-certified dermatologist.
• The Skin Cancer Foundation — Authoritative guidance on sun protection, skin cancer prevention, and sunscreen guidance.
Menopause and Hormonal Health
• The Menopause Society (NAMS) — Evidence-based information on menopause, including the role of estrogen in skin health.
• British Menopause Society — Clinical guidance and patient resources on all aspects of menopause management.
• International Menopause Society — Global resource on menopause health, including skin, cardiovascular health, and bone health.
Cosmetic Procedure Safety and Regulation
• Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) — UK register of qualified, regulated practitioners offering non-surgical cosmetic procedures.
• Save Face — Accreditation register helping patients find qualified practitioners and report poor practice in non-surgical aesthetics.
Disclaimer
The content of this podcast episode and accompanying show notes is intended for general informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute medical advice and should not be used as a substitute for professional medical guidance, diagnosis, or treatment. Always consult a qualified healthcare provider with any questions you may have regarding your health or a medical condition.
